To start with I was asked to design a high ranking officer’s jacket which then turned into a Duke’s jacket after a chat with the producers to find the best way forward.
Again I did a bit of research on French, British, Brunswick and Russian Duke’s. The Most famous of all Duke’s being Wellington. The first idea I had, was a simple “Wellington” Green frock coat with the Star and Garter award on the chest. White trousers and a simple bi-corn hat.
The bi-corn hat with red and white plume was liked, along with the idea of the star award, but the coat might not suit the person playing the Duke as he was short and the worry would be, with the coat on, he would look shorter. White trousers were a big no as well. The producers felt anything on the stage with white would look all wrong.
Back to the drawing broad
I then based the design on a Russian General. I decided that the jacket would have the classic long tails of the time, based on a gentleman jacket with ecru (cream material) turn backs on the tails, the tails split to the waist and all turn backs piped in red. The front of the jacket I did as a double breasted, piped in red so the fold would be framed. On the inside of the lapels I put red facing so if the lapels where folded back you could have different looks. An Italian Star and Garter award on the chest with red collar and cuffs not piped but just plain.
As an embellishment I put a red waist and shoulder sash to give an increased air of authority. I then had the idea of making the trousers out of the ecru as well; after all it’s not white! So you have the Bi-corn hat with a 16” plume half red over white, double breasted green jacket with tails, ecru turn backs all piped in red, with a red waist and shoulder sash and red collar and cuffs, with ecru trousers and short leather boots.
I also made a ecru waist coat to wear under the jacket. So you could have the waist coat with the waist and shoulder sash, with the jacket lose and open at the front. The lapels of the jacket turned back and buttoned on the same side as the lapels, revealing the red facing colour, framing the ecru waist coat and the two sashes.
Very Napoleonic